Saturday, August 15, 2015

5 Things Working as a Backpacking Guide Taught Me About Climbing and Life

The boys from Antioch, TN on top Mt. Antero
I've spent the last few summers working for a backpacking outfitter that guides groups of teenagers on weeklong treks through Colorado's backcountry and up some of the state's tallest mountains. Some of my most fun, challenging, and rewarding experiences have been in those mountains and these are some of the lessons I've learned.

1. How to be miserable: Growing up backpacking with my friends, if a raccoon ate all our food or the weather wasn't to our liking, we could hike out in the middle of the night and drive to Waffle House. When you're guiding a group of teens through the backcountry and a bear eats half of your week's meals or the stoves don't work or it has rained and hailed for the last seventy-two hours, you just have to deal. Sometimes you fester in a tent all day. Sometimes you hike with a missing toenail. Sometimes you don't eat so your clients can. Sometimes you remain in a perpetual state of damp, soggy, misery because you gave a forgetful client all your Gore-Tex rain gear. Embrace the sufferfest.

You learn how to suffer and how to be okay with it because, well, you're in it and sometimes the only way to get down is to keep going up.

Our group from Texas riding Antero's ridge

2. How to think about ethics: Nobody likes to think of their human behavior as destructive behavior. Whether it is pooping in the desert, picking Columbines in the high country, or accidentally leaving a Clif Bar at your last rest stop. But human action has environmental consequences and we have to be mindful of that. A fed bear is a dead bear because they become dependent on human food. A water reservoir is ruined because a fragile ecosystem was contaminated by human waste. Or maybe it's just robbing another hiker of the joy of seeing a beautiful rare wildflower.

Backpacking ought to make us aware of how our presence has lasting effects on natural spaces. Are all those bolts necessary at the new crag? Should I keep climbing at the boulderfield whose landing areas have been eroded and trampled away? How and where were these ingredients grown for this delicious burger? Leave No Trace goes far beyond a week in the woods.

Jamie helps Daniel across a flooded creek on a pre-season scouting trip of Mt. Ouray

3. How to move light and fast: I got sucked into the super-ultralight backpacking scene pretty quickly in high school. One weekend trip with an external frame and an Army Surplus tent and I was convinced: lighter is better. We made our own stoves, ditched most of our gear, and covered a lot of miles. And though my Gossamer Gear G6 "trashbag with shoulder straps" backpack wasn't practical for guiding,  I was pretty adamant about not carrying anything I didn't absolutely need. I wasn't about to carry a watermelon to summit just to say I did.

Backpacking inspires a certain level of minimalism that can help one achieve one's goals but also leave less impact along the way (see #2). "What can I ditch to shed base weight pounds?" "How much gear do I really need to take up this route?" "How many articles of clothing does my closet actually need? And do I have to buy them brand new?" Do we really need that much stuff?

Robin and I talk about the weather and our fastest route through the snow on Ptarmigan Peak

4. The view from the summit is better together: I've cried in the high country twice. The second time was last summer taking a group of students from West Memphis, Arkansas up Mt. Rinker. Rinker is one of our longest mountains by mileage and this group chose to do it in a five day push instead of our standard six. "Rinker the Stinker" is hard by any means but it was exceptionally hard for one particular student: a sizable offensive lineman we'll call Michael.

I hiked in the back all summit day with Michael and two other guys, taking turns -- quite literally -- carrying him up the mountain. His feet struggled to move, his legs struggled to lift, his lungs wrestled to breathe. Michael legitimately believed he couldn't do it. He told me at least 100 times, "I can't do it." And when he finally did it, he wept. And I did too. Looking back, I recall the wise words spoken on another mountain, "It's easy to shout encouragement from a distance, it's another to walk alongside someone and speak words of hope." 

West Memphis boys sharing the load, still in the valley below Rinker

5. How to appreciate not making it to the top: Sometimes you summit. Sometimes you don't. Backpacking has taught me that failure can be a powerful positive force. As a guide, few things are harder than telling a group of wide eyed students from Texas or Arkansas or Louisiana -- who worked hard and did everything right -- that their climb ends prematurely. That they're not going to summit. The mountains have a way of normalizing failure and they do not discriminate.

The first time I cried in the mountains was telling a group of young students from Houston, Texas that by no fault of their own they were not going to summit. Yes, weather was rolling in but we could have pushed it. No, we didn't summit that day because of a verbally abusive father who came as a parent chaperone. We ended our day early, below the summit ridge, to hopefully avoid long-term emotional wounds. It was hard. It was even harder when a teary eyed eighth grader with a mild form of autism came up and hugged me and the other guide, ecstatic for how far he had come. I looked at the other guide, our lips quivered, and we both cried. I learned that day that the mountain doesn't show us who we are but who we want to be, and I want to be like him.

Nothing feels better than standing on top of a mountain but few things are more powerful than the lessons learned from a failed attempt. Embrace risk. Try hard. Take chances. Fail often. Succeed next time.


Monday, May 11, 2015

Dixie Craggers Summer 2015 Mixtape

North Clear Creek swimming hole at the Obed
 
At my mother's behest, I played "Country Roads" at my very first guitar recital. When you grow up in a house where Johnny Cash, Dolly Parton, and The Statler Brothers fight for stereo time, you don't have much choice in the matter. Shortly after that recital, I began to take my guitar to the basement of our church where on Tuesday nights, old men with aged stringed instruments sat in an enormous circle pickin' and grinnin' music from the mountains. They were called the Skillet Lickers.  I struggled to keep up.

But I came of age rebelling against the music of my mother. The discovery of Sham 69, Minor Threat, and The Buzzcocks set my ears on a path that lasted well over a decade of my young life. The effects were deep and lasting. These days though, if I listen to music in my truck at all, I'm more prone to listen to Doc Watson or Uncle Tupelo than Reagan Youth. Like circles, we end up where we began, "but only in leaving can they ever come back round."

This summer's mixtape pays homage to the music of my roots. It opens with a blazing fury of Appalachian fiddle that will set the feet to tapping on even the most jaded urban ears. Acts like Benjamin Booker and Lee Bains III successfully cross the streams of Chuck Berry and Creedence Clearwater Revival with the likes of Bad Brains and Black Flag, respectively. But it all remains heavily anchored by country purist revivalists like Melissa Payne, Nick Ferrio, and Sturgill Simpson. In a time when country radio has not only neglected but totally turned its back on traditional country music, what could be more punk? Listen to it HERE.

Enjoy!
  1. Possessed By Paul James - There Will Be Nights When I'm Lonely Intro (TWBNWIL)
  2. Possessed By Paul James - There Will Be Nights When I'm Lonely (TWBNWIL)
  3. Diarrhea Planet - Heat Wave (Aliens in the Outfield)
  4. Nick Ferrio and His Feelings - Night Garden (Nick Ferrio and His Feelings)
  5. Melissa Payne - High and Dry (High and Dry)
  6. Sera Cahoone - Shakin' Hands (Deer Creek Canyon)
  7. Jason Isbell - Different Days (Southeastern)
  8. John Moreland - Heart's Too Heavy (High On Tulsa Heat)
  9. Brandi Carlisle - Wherever is Your Heart (The Firewatcher)
  10. Lee Bains III and the Glory Fires - The Kudzu and the Concrete (Dereconstructed)
  11. Sturgill Simpson - Just Let Go (Metamodern Sounds in Country Music)
  12. The Drive-By Truckers - Mama Bake a Pie, Daddy Kill a Chicken (The Fine Print)
  13. Benjamin Booker - Violent Shiver (Benjamin Booker)
  14. Dresses - Blew My Mind (Sun Shy)
  15. Manchester Orchestra - I Can Feel a Hot One (Mean Everything to Nothing)
Listen to it HERE.

Saturday, March 21, 2015

#dirtbagswag whips 006: Caleb's B2500 & The Making of a Dirtless Dirtbag

#dirtbagswag
Caleb James is the anti-dirtbag.

He is always clean.

He hates being dirty.

He openly hates dirt.

He hates sleeping in it.

He hates being covered in it.

He perpetually makes fun of me for my dirty fingernails, greasy hair, tattered and unwashed clothes. I don't know how he does it, but after a week in the mountains, Caleb looks like he just got out of the shower.

In fact, if you saw Caleb in the wild, your first thought would most likely be, Man who let this insanely good looking John Stamos-Rob Lowe hybrid with cheek bones like granite and back muscles like a sack of potatoes out of the super-top-secret underground-Calvin-Klein-underwear-model-laboratory? 

But don't let his dashing good looks and disdain for dirt fool you. Caleb loves mountains. And he loves the freedom and feeling he gets when moving vertically in their midst; whether in the Southeast or the Mountain West, either steep jug hunting or thin ice climbing, whether on foot or the sharp end of the rope. So he's always just dealt with the dirt.

Caleb does it all and he looks good doing it.
That is, he dealt with it until he found his 1996 Dodge B2500 conversion van at a dirtbag deal in Salida, Colorado where he works in the summers. He drove it back to Chattanooga, Tennessee where he studies outdoor education and business; sets boulder problems in the campus climbing gym; fixes bicycles; and takes Greek-lifers top-roping at Rocktown, SUPing on the Tennessee River, and leading ski trips to North Carolina.

Caleb has swagged out his van into a full-on dirtbag adventure mobile complete with bed, gear storage, and an enormous roof rack. But he hasn't sacrificed his penchant for the aesthetically pleasing either. "Tito" is decked out with interior mood lighting, shag carpet, and a Nintendo 64.


At the University of Tennessee at Chattanooga, students often mistake his van for an ambulance. And while that mistake would have made sense in the early 90s, Caleb's Dodge conversion van is, in fact, a lifesaver of sorts because now he doesn't have to sleep in all that dang dirt anymore.

whip specs

make and model: 1996 Dodge B2500
moniker: "Tito"
under the hood: 5.2L V8
gas mileage: see above
dirtbag mods: safari sized roof rack; DIY paint job; shag carpet yanked from his parents' old house; 12" Kicker subwoofer; Nintendo 64; eagle hood mount (sits on the spare tire cover). The bed comes with the van.

Caleb graduates in May and plans on dirtless dirtbagging across the United States before returning as a guide for the summer in Colorado. I'm hoping to meet up with him in the mountains at some point. You can catch him and Tito at a crag near you, but remember to kick the dirt off your shoes before you do.

Wednesday, November 12, 2014

The Dixie Cragger's Fall 2014 Mixtape

Bouldering season is here in the Southeast; Rocktown via @a_harrison

#dirtbagswag is down, but it isn't defeated. Not yet. Time to climb is hard to come by right now, never mind trying to write about climbing. But #dirtbagswag is back, back for now, and back with the Dixie Cragger's Fall Mixtape for your autumnal sending.

"Place is space which has historical meanings where some things have happened which are now remembered and which provide continuity and identity across generations." wrote Walter Brueggemann. Many of the songs are rooted in a yearning for a specific place and/or time. The yearning to belong and to have a sense of place is a deep and meaningful pursuit. Land gives us meaning and well-being. Place expresses the wholeness and joy of belonging.

A few months ago, I moved to a new city for a new job. Tony Horwitz is right to observe in Confederates in the Attic, that Atlanta is the "Anti-South," a cultureless concoction of urban sprawl and Northern industrialism, "a crass, brash city made in the image of the Chamber of Commerce and overrun with corporate climbers and carpetbaggers." So in many ways this playlist is self-therapeutic as I cope with this exile from the people and place that I love.

Thus, when Matt Woods laments, "My boots belong in East Tennessee, I carry her hills inside of me. When I lay down my head, she's in my dreams," I'm singing lament with him. But it is hopeful lamentation, because like Woods, who finds himself dislocated on the windy, prosaic plains of west Texas, I too can sing "I'll get back there someday, if I don't blow away."

If you've been listening to these seasonal playlists for a while, maybe since the beginning (2011), you won't be surprised to find an array of country, bluegrass, and folk music; all of which fall under the umbrella term of "Americana." And you won't be surprised to find them interspersed with an assortment of old-guy-who-still-reads-punknews.org punk songs. And all that is sandwiched between two Manchester Orchestra tracks (the latter of which is as near a perfect song as has ever been written). If you're right in the place where you belong or you're living in exile someplace outside -- or within -- the Mason-Dixon, there's something here for you.

Listen to it on Spotify HERE.

  1. Manchester Orchestra - The Only One (Mean Everything to Nothing)
  2. Chris Wollard and the Ship of Thieves - No Exception (Self-Titled)
  3. Drive-By Truckers - Part of Him (English Oceans)
  4. Deep Dark Woods - All the Money I Had Is Gone (Winter Hours)
  5. Old Crow Medicine Show - O Cumberland River (Remedy)
  6. Matt Woods - West Texas Winds (With Love From Brushy Mountain)
  7. Chuck Ragan - For All We Care (Till Midnight)
  8. The Wonder Years - Local Man Ruins Everything (Suburbia, I've Given You All & Now I'm Nothing)
  9. Possessed by Paul James - Songs We Used To Sing (There Will Be Some Nights That I'm Lonely)
  10. Steve Martin & Edie Brickell - When You Get to Asheville (Love Has Come For You)
  11. Blue Mountain - Mountain Girl (Dog Days)
  12. Honeywagon - New Slang (The Shins cover) (A Bluegrass Tribute to The Shins)
  13. Uncle Tupelo - Looking For A Way Out (Uncle Tupelo 89/93)
  14. Billie Bragg & Wilco - Way Over Yonder in the Minor Key (Mermaid Avenue)
  15. Peggy Honeywell - Green Mountain (Green Mountain)
  16. Have Gun, Will Travel - Finer Things (Fact, Fiction, or Folktale)
  17. The Menzingers - The Talk (Rented World)
  18. The Good Luck Thrift Store Outfit - Very Best Of (Old Excuses)
  19. Hackensaw Boys - Alabama Shamrock (Love What You Do)
  20. Manchester Orchestra - Colly Strings (Like A Virgin Losing a Child)
Listen to it on Spotify HERE
Listen to The Dixie Cragger's Summer Mixtape HERE

Wednesday, September 10, 2014

The 3 Stages of Belaying Someone Crushing Your Project


Marshall makes quick twerk of my project Ride the Short Bus 
and looks like a Greco-Roman god doing it.
This summer, I started climbing hard -- well, hard for me. Climbing 5.12 was actually in the realm of possibility if I would ever take the time to actually work on something for more than three burns. And since I was spending a week at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch (where the routes are short and the grades are relatively soft), I thought I would take the time to actually "project" something: Ride the Short Bus, an Obed-esque tiered roof 12a in a pretty impeccable and secluded area of the Ranch. And it didn't hurt that my friend Marshall had tagged along for the ride; a climbing coach and an all around master of psyche, Marshall helps people send.

So after a few pathetic displays of human strength and endurance, Marshall tied in to the business end of the rope to show me some things. And boy, did he. The following are the three stages of my response to his on-sight/flash/whatever/crushfest.



Stage 1: The Student "You are the master, and I am the learner. Teach your ways. Show me your beta." 

In this stage, you are genuinely interested and excited about seeing someone better than you try your climb. You're asking yourself what can you learn from this person? How will they work the crux? Where will they take a rest? What do they do differently? You are inquisitive and open to new possibilities.

Stage 2: The Stoked "Heck yeah! He just cruised that crux! Maybe I can too!"

During the second stage, your psyche dyke has been breached. By now, you have yelled ample "yeah!"'s and "come on!"'s. Your partner is crushing and you are stoked. You are stoked for him and you're stoked at the possibility that maybe you can crush too.

Stage 3: The Stupefied "Are you effing kidding me? There's no way. He never even shook out."

By the third and final stage, your partner has clipped the chains and you're not even sure he took time shake out or chalk up. "What part was I supposed to watch again?" you ask yourself. "He moved so fast I didn't even notice his beta." You are left perplexed and dumbfounded. You begin to question everything you ever thought about yourself. You contemplate your existence and begin to ask if it's really all worth it. "What is the meaning of climbing?" And thus, "What is the meaning of life?" "Why am I even here?" "What has this all been about?" You recognize your physical, mental, and human inferiority but instead of getting into the fetal position and crying yourself to sleep on the bathroom floor like you did on prom night, you reluctantly tie in to try again.


"Try hard. Fail often. Succeed next time." - Dave MacLeod

photos by Logan Mahan and Jamie Van Tassle