Showing posts with label boulderingisdumb. Show all posts
Showing posts with label boulderingisdumb. Show all posts

Wednesday, April 15, 2020

You Got Everything? -- A Gear Guide to Bouldering

you got everything?

Bouldering is simple: there's a boulder, you climb it. That's bouldering. But this is also bouldering: "Lay down start. Lock off with your left. Heal-toe-cam, down turn knee on your right and crank to a mono pocket. Bump to a crimp. Yard up to an crimp rail and traverse left to a finger crack. Layback the crack up to a another rail and top out through an offwidth." That's the actual beta notes I jotted down for a decidedly unclassic V5 at Zahnd in Georgia.

The gear necessary for bouldering can be as simple and as complex (or contrived) as the above paragraph. Stop any mattress carrying whipper snapper in the woods and you'd be amazed at the amount of gear they carry to surmount 12-20 ft summits. From aesthetic clothing to meticulous skincare products to a quiver, nay, arsenal of climbing shoes, the modern day pebble wrestler has more in common with old crusty big wall climbers than meets the eye. If you want to have a nice time out in the boulders these days, you'll need a checklist of the essentials before you head out the door. Here's the necessities:
  1. approach shoes: Southeastern approaches can be demanding. Oh sure, they're mostly flat but the occasional rock, root, or puddle of mud demands proper footwear. These shoes are like normal shoes but uglier and with some rubber on the toe so you can kind of sort of climb V0 in them. Pretty neat, right? Well, they cost about as much as those downsized, downturned asymetrical climbing shoes you got too.
  2. bright colored pants: Every climber knows the only reason to climb is for the 'gram. And what good is the post if your neutral colored Carharrts blend in with the dull, boring, grey of the stone? Bright colored, preferably yellow, pants will pop with pizzazz and catch the eye of even the most brain dead, free scrolling instragram zombie. You can almost feel the sweet sweet dopamine hit before your followers even double tap.
  3. beanie: Let the trad dads have their tired, unoriginal cliches about shirtless climbers wearing beanies. Heat escapes from your head not your pecs, old man.
  4. Crocs: Two-thirds of bouldering is sitting. And those downsized, downturned, asymmetrical, and aggressive shoes can't stay on your feet forever. But putting your socks and shoes back on? Yuck! That's why God invented Crocs. And thanks to Post Malone these comfy monstrosities are back in style. I prefer camo.
  5. Puffy jacket: No, you may not be belaying twelve pitches up on a big wall on Baffin Island or cutting out a snow cave on the Cassin Ridge but it does get chilly in between burns. Don't underestimate the power of puff! Pro-tip: stuff your shoes inside your puffy to keep those toesies nice and happy!
  6. comfy climbing shoes: A good warm up is crucial to a productive bouldering session and avoiding injury, but you don't want to look like fool slipping off that edge in your approach shoes and you don't want to look like a gumby climbing the warm up slab in Dragons, so you'll want a pair of nice, flat, comfy climbing slippers to warm up in.
  7. aggressive climbing shoes: downsized? check. downturned? check. asymmetrical foot shape? check. The ancient and painful tradition that China finally banned is alive and well in America's boulderfields.  The climbing industrial complex is starting to refute their downsizing ways but the true believers know that the send demands the downsize. I threw a heel hook the other day and I swear my toes were touching my heel... and I sent.
  8. chalk pot: No chalkee, no sendee. That's a fact. Lots of chalkee, lots of sendee. That's why chalk pots are so big. Also, using a chalk bag while bouldering is a fashion faux pas. It'd be like a snowboarder in a 1990s Disney movie wearing a turtleneck like some New England prep school ski team yuppie. "Come on Johnny Tsunami, we're going on a Sky Raid!" 
  9. multiple crash pads: John Sherman may have been able to send the gnar with only the floormat of his #dirtbagswag whip beneath his feet but that doesn't mean that you should. Carry a crashpad. Carry multiple crashpads. Strap, bungee, or tie them together. Carry yours like a  backpack and strap a second pad on top like a backpack for your backpack. Sling another over one shoulder like a cool kid's backpack on Saved by the Bell. That's three pads for your big long roof project or warm up wall traverse! No broken ankles necessary.
  10. scratch pad: Sure, those crashpads were meant to be carried and thrown around outside and take the abuse of dirt and stone but you don't want to get your expensive custom Organic pad design dirty! That's what scratch pads are for. Brush your shoes off like you're entering a rich person's house before stepping onto your crashpads like you weren't raised in a barn! Also, suitable as a crash pad for your lowball choss roof project.
  11. bouldering brush: Having trouble on that boulder? You definitely have the right beta and you're definitely strong enough. All that chalk and shoe rubber builds up and is likely what's holding you back. Give it a good scrubbing.
  12. another bouldering brush: Still not sending? Try your other brush. No, your other brush. The one with the boar's hair. Oh, they're both boar's? Well, maybe the brush with the wooden handle this time.
  13. another bouldering brush attached to an extendable painter's pole: The last time you want to be surprised by a greasy grimy sloper crimp is at the top of your highball on-sight attempt. These are the job for the mega-brush. You could tape a brush to a long stick but you'll probably forget to take the tape off anyway and you're committed to the LNT, right? ... RIGHT?! Leave no trace.
  14. tape: Few things can end a sesh quicker than a big ol' flapper. Protect and prolong your time at the proj with simple climber's tape.
  15. emery board: Hey Paul Bunyan, your calloused hands may impress your big blue cow or whatever but those gratuitously raised pads might be what's giving you those session-ending flappers. File down your callouses so they don't snag and rip on the stone. Sure, you could do this at home before  climbing but why bother? You have to do something while spraying your friends and anyone else within earshot with beta and V-points.
  16. skin care salve: Gobies? Flappies? Dried, split phalanges? Try any number of expensive skin care salves marketed exclusively to climbers. After all, there's a reason traveling medicine shows were a thing, right?
  17. guidebook: "The guidebook says it's classic but I thought it was choss." "The guidebook says it's V7, but I thought it felt more like V4." "The guidebook says it's V4, but I thought it felt more like V7." "The guidebook says it should be here." "The guidebook says I should stick my head in the microwave and give myself a tan...?" The guidebook -- or the profits made from guidebooks -- is sacred and you must not question it.
  18. headlamp: All good things must come to an end. And even though your partner is on her 87th "last burn of the day," the sun may finally be the dad who tells his kids' friends "you don't have to go home but you can't stay here." Seeing how you killed your phone battery posting insta stories all day, you're going to want a headlamp to find your way in the dark. 
  19. work-light: Fools, cowards, and gumbies go home when it gets dark. Often, the OGs, bone crushers, and slaydies are just rolling into the parking lot at sundown. Daylight is no reason to cut your session short. The cold night air provides those sweet condies you need for the send and a battery powered or rechargeable work light means you can work your project until the cows come home.
  20. phone / camera / GoPro: footie of the send.
  21. tripod: stable, level, non-shaky footie of the send. 
  22. coffee: legal stimulant for the send.
  23. food: sustenance for the send.
  24. water: hydration for the send.
  25. beer: celebration for the send. or consolation for the lack thereof.
What did I forget?


Tuesday, February 4, 2020

All for Fun and Fun for All!

highballin' and funhoggin'

Alex Lowe once said that "the best climber in the world is the one having the most fun." Well Mr. Lowe never had the good fortune of watching Adam Ondra power scream his way through the world's hardest sport routes, boulders, big walls, and soon the summer Olympics. The next best climber is obviously Tommy Caldwell and then probably Ashima Shiraishi. At any rate, if you are reading this, you're pretty far down the list of "the best climber in the world." So far down, in fact, that having fun is just about all that we can do. Which is good because rock climbing is fun.

But sometimes that's easy to forget. Like when you're on your seventh try of a sit-down-start boulder problem and you can't even get your butt off the ground; or you fell just before the anchors on your sixteen-bolt sport project; or you're gripped, three pitches up, fifteen feet above your last C3. It's moments like these you wonder why you started climbing in the first place.

Maybe rock climbing is your "fun," your "zen," your "solace" as you squeak out an existence in your soul sucking, labor alienating, 9-to-5 day job. But in your quest to maximize climbing's "funhogging" potential you've become a slave to the grade chase or to sending that project you've worked on all season -- so much so that climbing itself has become just another task rather than a life-giving exercise and you've forgotten the unadulterated joy rock climbing brought you long ago.

Whatever the situation, I think we all, from time to time, need to be reminded of how fun rock climbing is and why we gave ourselves to this "conquest of the useless" in the first place.
 
A few weeks ago, me and some of the Choss Boys AKA the Chosstafarians AKA the "Three Chossineers" went bouldering at Zahnd but instead of working Razors Edge and other Phantom Area classics, we ran around the woods climbing and giggling on Zahnd's contrivances, oddities, and triflings -- The "Zahnd Tour de Weird," so to speak. It was a reminder of just how purely fun rock climbing can be. 

According to Tony Alva, "You didn't quit skateboarding because you got old. You got old because you quit skateboarding." And the same could be said about climbing or playing in the woods because here we were, three 30 year olds, goofing around in the forest like a bunch of school children. It's hard to quantify your "most fun day in the mountains" but this is certainly up there for me. I didn't send anything noteworthy or difficult, I just felt like a kid again.  I hope I never forget days like this one.

And as weird as it is, Andrew and I both talked about how "Annie's Full Moon" got us both psyched to get out there and try hard-for-us boulders this season. So, just by getting out and having fun I feel motivated to project. Which is not something I've ever felt toward bouldering.

Rock climbing is fun.

THE TICK LIST:

Cheesecake Arete: V0
One of the best of the grade anywhere. Despite its height, it just doesn't climb long enough. Enjoy it while it lasts. A classic.
"Cheesecake Arete"

Around the World: 12a, "V-Long"
In the Middle Blocs area, traverse the entire block. Very chill until you turn the second corner. On the back side of the massive boulder, hang on for the red point crux of overhanging jugs with a substantial amount of the Zahnd "curse."

"Around the World"


No Hands Slab: "V-Fun"
Immediately behind "Cheesecake" is a well featured low angle slab.V-Fun if you climb only using your legs. Never skip leg day...
no hands slab

Annie's Full Moon: "V-Next Level"
In the Land of Aretes zone, climb into the hole and sit down. This may be the best "end of the day" boulder problem of all time. Classic.

Other Bizarre Must Do's: Hotdog Hole, The Channel, Classic Warmup (nothing bizarre, except its height). 



"All for fun and fun for all!" -- The Three Chossineers

Wednesday, December 18, 2019

5 Classic Southern V0s

"Yosemite Slab"

V0 -- the shudras of the bouldering caste system. It's the grade you warm up on or the grade you aspire to move on from. They are the boulders you walk past to get to your project or your well-rehearsed circuit. Nobody's spraying about V0 on Instagram or Mountain Project or 8a but there are some really great problems at the grade. Boulders that stand on their own as absolute classics despite their diminutive difficulty.

Perhaps V0 is your warm up or your cool down grade. Maybe V0 is your limit or your project as you begin climbing outside. Or maybe, if you're like me, you have been training for a 50K and you have neglected your forearms and lat muscles and fingers for so long V0 is all you can manage to send when you finally make it back out to the boulders with your buds. Whatever V0 is for you, below are some southern classics that should not be missed regardless of your climbing ability. Boulders that are megasplitter uberclassics but don't get the love they deserve because of their low end v-scale.

Cheesecake Arete
HM: Cheesecake Arete -- Zahnd, GA

Honorable mention is due to Zahnd's "Cheesecake Arete." This tall line up a picture perfect bloc in Zahnd's aptly named zone, "Land of Arete's" is unmistakable; walk around long enough and you'll see it. A perfect slice of tasty southern sandstone. The crux is standing up at the top without falling off either side. It falls just outside the Top 5 only because it's over too quick!

5. Easy Crack -- Boat Rock, GA
Boat Rock's de facto warm up is so good it has its own t-shirt designed after it. Just a short walk from the entrance, it allows one to sink one's paws into the area's sharp and abrasive granite before padding up precarious slabs all day. Despite its earned reputation as a slab mecca, Boat Rock has a lovely crack circuit to get gobie'd up on. You'll wish "Easy Crack" went on for a full pitch... or four.

4. El Classico -- Rocktown, GA
Slabs generally lend themselves well to the V0 grade because their low angle makes otherwise diminutive holds seem like bucket jugs in the gym. This one should be done every trip down to Rocktown.

3. Donkey Show -- Horse Shoe Canyon Ranch, AR
Low angle cracks and slabs don't do it for you? Travel to the Ozarks and try Horse Shoe Canyon Ranch's "Donkey Show." Follow the line of steep hero jugs to ≈ twenty-feet. Sally up for the crux and continue to the top. If it were any longer it would be 14c at the Red.

2. Jaws -- Sand Rock, AL
Is it a trad lead, a top-rope, or a boulder? "Jaws" toys with the grey area between bouldering, soloing, and third class mountaineering. Whichever way you do it -- and for the purposes of this blog, you should boulder it -- you'll enjoy the in-cuts and horns on this butt puckering arete. Don't blow it at the top! Just remember it's V0 (or that dreaded, archaic, sandbagged 5.9+) so it's all there.

1. Yosemite Slab -- Jackson Falls, IL
For this one, we must, as reluctant we may be, venture north of the Mason-Dixon Line. Illinois may not be geographically Southern but southern Illinois, with it's Kentucky and Missouri neighbors, gets an honorary position. And "Yosemite Slab" is worthy of its honor: a mammoth, beautiful, and seemingly blank piece of stone smack in the middle of the Prairie State's grandest canyon. It is perhaps the most iconic and classic V0 this side of the Mississippi River. It is tall, daunting, and plain ol' fun.

On a weekend solo adventure a few winters ago, I went out to the Falls and ran laps on this rig in between chapters of Brian Panowich's Bull Mountain. It is the only thing I have climbed at Jackson Falls and I could easily be persuaded to return and do the same again. It's just that good.

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What did I miss? Tell me in the comments.
Forth coming: 5 Classic Southern Party Trick Boulders...