Summer in the Southeast

It had been five years since I spent a summer in the South. It's hot. Like, really hot. And humid. Somewhere I read a clever acronym about summertime in the South: Snakes, Humidity, Ivy, and Ticks and it's pretty accurate. But the climbing is still oh-so good. You just have to wake up early and chase that shade. I surprised myself and climbed outside almost everyday that it hasn't rained. And since the great state of Tennessee was in a drought, that was most days.  

Summer comes pretty early in the Southeast. Come May, you're sweating just walking from the parking lot to your workplace. My workplace is a high school, so things are beginning to wind down and Daylight Savings Time means I can find time between preparing final exams to get out after school and on the weekends.

Jackson enjoys the movement on "Ethiopia" (5.10+R) at Suck Creek's Roadside Wall

On May 27, I turned in the last of my end-of-the-year paperwork and drove to the New River Gorge with new and old Chattanooga friends. Memorial Day meant the masses had come from all over and the crags felt a lot like a mega-gym at peak time. But the hordes could be avoided by climbing harder than usual on "less than classic" routes which, in turn, meant a lot of fun. 

Abi avoids the crowds by warming up on an unnamed 11 at Summersville Lake

Sydney and I catch the sunset after deep water soloing at Whippoorwhill 

I had intended to spend the whole month of June at the New but had trouble finding partners after the Memorial Day crowds deserted the gorge. Even though 48 hours of deep water soloing and margarita drinking was fun, it was not how I wanted to spend the summer, so I drove back to Chattanooga where I could have consistent partners. 

Sunset Park is without a doubt, my favorite crag in the Chattanooga area and second only to the Obed, my favorite place to climb, period. Andrew (the chemistry teacher at my school) and I have taken advantage of our summer vacations and the crag's shady west-facing cliffs to run through the south-end's classics, as well as some "no-star" moderates. Onto the northside!

Andrew follows the money pitch on Sunset's classic, but seldom travelled, "Northwest Conversion" (5.9)

Sydney beats the heat at Lake Nickajack

Summer bouldering? In the Southeast? Yes, we have that too. Some might say that Alabama's greatest gift to climbing is its boulders. But those who say that usually flock to the Heart of Dixie in January and February, when friction is prime. But down in the Little River Canyon is a treasure trove of water-marked boulders you can get all hot-and-bothered on. When you do, cool off in any number of swimming holes and soak in the gorgeous natural beauty of the place. 

Jamie gets ready to commit to an Alabama top out in the Canyon

Similarly, North Carolina's Linville Gorge offers some some spectacular water-smoothed quartzite boulders in a truly remarkable setting. I love the gorge for its big, airy, and wild multi-pitch but it was rad to experience the place from a new perspective. The bouldering is every bit as adventurous -- maybe more so -- as the towering cliffs above them.

Using word of mouth and screenshot topos, Jamie and I slogged through 1,400 to 1,600 feet of bushwhacking and boulderhopping straight down into the gorge to find a High Country heaven.
I can't wait to come back.

A very fun boulder in the Wonderland sector

Jamie cut her multi-pitch teeth at Table Rock -- eight pitches of 5.fun climbing culminating with the super fun, mega classic "North Ridge." Here she shotguns a well-deserved Busch after topping out while the "uh-oh clouds" storm across the valley.

The North Ridge (5.5)

A year ago, Josh and I traveled around the Mountain West climbing rocks together. I was guiding a trip on his birthday so I made it up to him with a PBR. This year, I earned my buddy-points by belaying him on 27 different routes for his 27th birthday. It was hard. It was ugly. There was grunting, cursing, aiding, hanging, and of course, sending. It was awesome. At the end of the day, this is what joy looks like.

Josh at the end of a birthday sufferfest.